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Should you do a tour of the Old Library/Book of Kells at Trinity College?

Given the restoration project that is still ongoing and with the majority of books gone from shelves, many tourists are wondering if it’s even worth it.

The Book of Kells is one of Dublin’s — and Ireland’s — most popular attractions and for good reason.

The 9^th-century, 680-page manuscript, which documents the four gospels of Jesus Christ’s life (Matthew, Mark, Luke and John), is different from many other manuscripts of that time.

Bound in four volumes, some of the pages that you'll see if you visit include the The Gospel of Luke folio 200r, as illustrated above, as well as other pages from Luke's gospel. The short video on this page zooms in on folio 200r, explaining the intricacies of the ornate script and images.

The Old Library is separate from the Book of Kells display, which is on the lower floor of the building.

The space — known as The Long Room (measuring 213 feet/65 meters) — is impressive for sure, with its rows and rows of shelves that are intended to house some of Ireland’s most treasured books, as well as 44 busts that include four of notable women, which were added in 2023.

Why Visit the Space?

With the majority books now removed, it might seem a bit hollow, but several members of the Ireland on a Budget Facebook group as well as my colleague and Dublin tour guide Alan Bryne, who wrote this timely piece on the restoration project, agree that is indeed worth seeing, given the scale of the room.

Despite the lack of books, many enjoy Trinity’s new digital experience known as Gaia, an illuminated artwork that is positioned underneath the Long Room’s vaulted ceiling and features NASA imagery of the Earth’s surface.

Gaia is part of The Book of Kells Experience that you can book on the Trinity College website. The ticket includes access to Chapter 1 of the Book of Kells, as well as access to the Old Library, where Gaia is housed.

Ninety-minute self-guided and 75-minute guided tours are available.

Before you decide whether the Book of Kells Experience is for you, ask yourself these questions:

• Are you interested in seeing an imposing grand space that was built in 1712 and dominates both inside the Trinity College campus and outside it despite being surrounded by similarly scaled buildings?
• Are you curious about the work of the Irish monks and the mystery that surrounds the creation of the Book of Kells? Was it made on the island of Iona off the Scottish coast and was it first known as the Book of Columba, named after another revered Irish saint?
• Do you like looking at works of art that are so unusual you’ll wonder how, in the 8^th century, could they have been created given the sparseness of the monks' surroundings and the constant threat of Viking raids?
• Are you prepared to visit a tourist attraction that at times may be crowded (especially true during the summer months)?

If you can answer a resounding yes to at least two of these questions, then I suggest you absolutely must pay a visit to the Old Library and to the Book of Kells.

Options Outside of The Book of Kells

I also wanted to share some other options if you are interested in art and culture while visiting Dublin. Of course, there are many more, but these will no doubt whet your appetite for what Dublin has to offer.

• National Gallery of Ireland – get your fix of Irish and international artists at this wonderful attraction in Dublin that is FREE to visit. See this updated news item on the 2025 exhibitions at the gallery.
• Museum of Literature – if you love Irish writers, you’ll want to visit this interactive museum. MoLI celebrates Irish poets, playwrights and novelists. Some of the cool exhibits there include Copy No. 1 of James Joyce’s Ulysses up close.

• National Museum of Ireland Collins Barracks – one of my favorite free museums in Dublin. Current exhibits include GAA: People, Objects & Stories, Harry Clarke’s Stained Glass, along with permanent exhibitions: Irish Wars: 1919 to 1923 and Soldiers and Chiefs - The Irish at War at Home and Abroad from 1550 to the present day, and much more.
• The Royal Hibernian Academy – another excellent visual arts museum in Dublin. You might want to check out a new exhibition called Bogskin, which is running through April 20^th. The bog is synonymous with Irish life, especially rural Ireland and it has been woven into our folklore, history and home life.
• The National Print Museum - housed in what was once the Garrison Chapel of the 19th century Beggars Bush Barracks. It is free to visit, but you can take a guided tour (only €6) that tells the story of printing in Ireland. The museum also has one of the 200 original 1916 Proclamations, alongside a Wharfedale press used to print the revolutionary declaration in secret ahead of the Easter Rising.

Trip Planning Resources

Heading to Ireland this year? Here are a few of the resources available on the Ireland on a Budget website.

• How to plan a vacation to Ireland in 7 easy steps.
• Itinerary ideas – use these suggested itineraries as a base for your own planning.
• Getting around Ireland via public transportation – a complete guide to bus and train travel.
• Accommodation in Ireland’s major cities – favorite hotels in Dublin (newly updated with additional hotel choices added), Galway, Cork and Belfast. A complete guide on those and other cities is coming soon.
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If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me by replying to this email.

Happy traveling,

Colette ☘️